Getting Off the Beaten Path in Edinburgh

Edinburgh is where old meets new. Fairytale-esque Old Town, which has seen generations of monarchs gain and lose power from the perch of one of Europe’s most impressive castles, intersects with New Town, where a new guard of writers, chefs, and distillers are writing fresh chapters in Scotland’s history.

In short, in Edinburgh, you can explore the country’s iconic National Galleries in the morning and the world-renowned Edinburgh Fringe in the afternoon.

You can rest easy at Kimpton Charlotte Square Hotel. (Photo Credit: @kimptoncharlottesquare)

Welcome to Edinburgh. (Photo Credit: Gilley Aguilar)

In the heart of hip New Town, with a view of that dazzling castle, Kimpton Charlotte Square Hotel allows you to write your own story — with a little bit of modern-day magic. Here, you can experience Edinburgh’s historical charm while enjoying Kimpton’s modern amenities. Within blocks of the must-see sights, as well as many under-the-radar treasures, it’s the ideal home base to choose your own adventure in Edinburgh.

Walk in the Royals’ Shoes

Walk in the footsteps of centuries of monarchs along the Royal Mile between the domineering 12^th century Edinburgh Castle and Palace of Holyrood House, the Queen’s official Edinburgh residence. Tour the castle to see the Crown Jewels worn by Mary Queen of Scots and the ancient Stone of Destiny, which is still used in coronations.

Edinburgh Castle is one of the most iconic castles in all of Scotland. (Photo Credit: K. Mitch Hodge)

Spend the day like a royal at Holyrood House. (Photo Credit: Laura Chouette)

Explore the architectural beauty of Edinburgh. (Photo Credit: Laura Chouette)

Continue downhill through Old Town toward the palace, which is open to the public when not being used by the royal family. Nearby, hike Arthur’s Seat — the highest point on a 251-meter extinct volcano — for breathtaking views. Want more? There are several levels of hikes that start from the palace and Parliament.

When in Scotland, royalty — both real and golf royalty — play at St. Andrews, less than two hours by car or train from Edinburgh, but locals head just 10 minutes south of the city center to Bruntsfield Links, which is open to the public.

Edinburgh Underground

For a different perspective far from the royal splendor, go underground. When South Bridge was completed in 1788, the vaults under the bridge’s 19 arches were used as storage for businesses above ground.

As the city grew, conditions deteriorated, making them ground zero for the usual red-light district activities — as well as disease and even murders. To explore this hidden history, take a history tour or ghost tour of the vaults.

Because when you’re in Scotland, you drink scotch. (Photo Credit: @ambitiousstudio)

Other less-expected places to check out include:

• Bannerman’s — a gritty bar in the vaults loved by locals for live rock and scotch.
• The Jazz Bar — an intimate basement venue for Scottish and international jazz, blues, soul, and funk music.
• Panda & Sons — for the best speakeasy-worthy cocktails in Scotland.

Exploring Edinburgh’s projected royal history and the hidden history of the vaults will give you a unique perspective on this old city.

Scotland’s Literary Capital

J.K. Rowling may be Edinburgh’s most financially successful author, but she was by no means the first. The moment you see Scott Monument, the towering memorial to Sir Walter Scott (author of Ivanhoe), you will know how Edinburgh reveres its authors. Harry Potter fans must have a coffee at The Elephant House, where Rowling dreamed up her magical world.

Scott Monument is a testament to one of the city’s most beloved authors. (Photo Credit: Vishwajeet Sawant)

Never pass up the opportunity to visit a good bookstore. (Photo Credit: Samantha Hentosh)

All readers can get lost in Edinburgh’s many bookshops, like McNaughtan’s, Scotland’s oldest second-hand bookshop with many rare books, or Lighthouse, which calls itself a “radical” bookstore specializing in left-wing politics and activism.

Aspiring writers shouldn’t miss the free Writers’ Museum, dedicated to Scott, Robert Burns, and Robert Louis Stevenson, or the Edinburgh International Book Festival, which brings literary icons from around the world to Charlotte Square Gardens every August.

Eating Your Way through Edinburgh

Edinburgh’s culinary scene is so much more than haggis and whisky — especially in New Town. (Though you can find those Scottish essentials there, too.) The city’s top tables — cozy bistros and imaginative tasting menus alike — feature local and seasonal seafood, meat, and produce.

You don’t even have to leave Kimpton Charlotte Square for great food. (Photo Credit: @kimptoncharlottesquare)

Stop by BABA for a fabulous Mediterranean spread. (Photo Credit: @kimptoncharlottesquare)

In addition to BABA for Mediterranean mezze, notables within blocks of Charlotte Square include:

• Café St. Honore — a local favorite for classic French fare.
• The Table — billed as an “interactive fine-dining experience” at one 10-seater table.
• SIX by NICO — a restaurant that showcases a new tasting menu every six weeks inspired by locations (“Middle East” or “Paris”) or themes (“The 70s” or “Childhood 2.0”).

After dinner, New Town has noteworthy nightlife, too. Visit whisky cocktail paradise The Devil’s Advocate or The Oxford Bar, which avoids being a tourist trap despite being made famous by crime novelist Ian Rankin.

There is nothing quite like an old Scottish pub. (Photo Credit: Benjamin Trosch)

Away from the tourist drag, those in-the-know urge a trip to Morningside for the quintessential pub experience at The Canny Man’s. The circa 1871 pub has 250 whiskies, and, if you’re feeling adventurous, every size champagne bottle in the world.

For seafood by the water, it’s worth the 20 minute taxi ride to Leith for Michelin-starred Martin Wishart, foodie gem The Little Chartroom, and classic chippies.

Where to stay: Kimpton Charlotte Square Hotel